Saturday, June 8, 2013

Catalunya, Singapore

When Catalunya opened July last year, the media and aficionados alike went wild - it had El Bulli written all over it. How can it not? Spearheaded by Executive Chef Alain Devahive Tolosa and restaurant manager Pol Porelló, they would have at least 20 years of experience between them working at El Bulli. 

When you hear "El Bulli", immediately molecular gastronomy comes to mind. If that's what you're expecting when dining at Catalunya, you'll be utterly disappointed. Perhaps you'll find a dish or 2 worthy of being on El Bulli's menu (deconstructed tortilla and spherical olives), but Catalunya isn't about a molecular gastronomy dining experience. Instead, it serves contemporary Catalunian cuisine, putting an exquisite twist to very traditional Spanish dishes.

Catalunya is housed in a glass-encased dome - the newly built Fullerton Pavilion which floats on top of the Marina Bay waters. 360 degrees view all around, absolutely stunning indeed. I've always imagined the perfect proposal to be set in a place like this - high glass windows, overlooking the waters. There's a place in Cottesloe Beach, Perth which is exactly like this. Here's to wishful thinking (; 

So a very good friend of mine had his birthday earlier this year and we decided to check this place out. I called 3 days earlier only to find that dinner was fully booked and the earliest availability was at 8.30pm. Seemed fine for us since we were used to eating that late, plus we were a bit too excited to pass out on it! I also mentioned that we were celebrating a birthday and they were very kind to let me know that they will have a surprise cake all ready for the night! 

Gorgeous views from the bar

And so the day came. We arrived at 8.15pm, only to be told that our seats weren't ready. No problem at all, did I mention that they have a gorgeous bar where you could have tapas and drinks by their award-winning bartender? We decided to just wait though - drinks and tapas would have spoilt our appetite for dinner! 8.30pm came. 8.45pm. 9pm. I think I was slightly irritated, only because from where we were seating, we could clearly see an empty table. I understand that it might have been booked for someone else, but clearly they have not shown up yet. It was only at 9.40pm we got our table - a whole hour later than what we were down for! We weren't offered any drinks or anything - just water and being told that our table would be ready for us "soon".

 Views from our table

 Croquetas De Jamon ($15) 

These came piping hot and were very, very good. All melty and creamy on the inside, with fatty, salty, melt in your mouth jamon...moreish indeed.

 Chorizo Y Estrellados ($18)

The birthday boy was craving chorizos so we had to order this. Not granting the birthday boy's wishes would be very wrong (; This was simply, sliced chorizo and scrambled eggs on a bed of roasted potatoes. As mediocre and easy as it sounds, this was perfect. The roast potatoes were crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside, seasoned very well; the eggs were so creamy and rich and the chorizos were very good, they had a nice spice without being too salty. I loved how each component was seasoned perfectly yet when you have it all together it wasn't too salty and went so well together.

 Grilled aubergine under miso springkle ($12)

To be honest I have no idea what a springkle is, neither could I find it on Google. Yet I don't think a restaurant of this scale and class would have allowed a typo on their menu. This seemed almost toe Japanese (think nasu dengaku) to be on the menu but perhaps I'm just oblivious to Spanish cuisine. Couldn't really fault this dish - eggplant and miso is a matchmake in heaven. The eggplant was grilled really well resulting in a very soft and sweet flesh and the miso offset that with it's salty umami-ness.

 Catalunya tartar ($20)

At first glance this would look like an ordinary steak tartar with dish washing liquid bubbles. For the uninitiated, this would also taste like beef. Not sure which hat the chef pulled the rabbit out from but this was mind-blowing. This dish consists of only tomatoes, but Chef Alain has managed to change the texture so that it feels like beef, and then fluff up the soul of the tomatoes so what comes out is the foam. I wish there was another word to describe this, but tasty would be my choice. Comes with little servings of toasted bread in very cute silverware - in the shape of flip flops!

Suckling pig tapa ($22)

Now, if you go to Catalunya in a group of 3 or more, make sure you order their suckling pig - so soft and tender that it cuts with a plate, yet the skin is so crispy it literally shatters. But what do you do when there's only 2 of you? Order the tapas sized portion! You know how sometimes, when you least expect it, you bite into something and then this sense of joy and warmth overcomes you...it so rarely happens that when it does, you literally feel like you could be happy dying there and then. Well, this was it. It was so succulent and fork tender, the crackling was really crisp and then as if it wasn't flavourful enough, they had a full-bodied reduction to go with it. 

I've never really had pork like that before. It's like all the fat melted into the meat so you don't really see the fat at all. What you're left with is really sticky goodness, all gelatinous and broken down but still has that bite to it. Totally unlike pulled pork which can get all stringy and dry - this was amazing. It was also served with a lemon pith emulsion which helped cut through the fat.

Chocolate in different textures ($16)

I think the boy was still a little spellbound by the Choconuts we had at Jaan, so he jumped at this the moment he saw it on the menu. I would have had the Torrija with smoked milk ice-cream just because it was something different, but who am I to stop the birthday boy? We weren't blown away by this dish though, it was good, but not amazing. 

Surprise birthday cake

The cake (on the house), was a lovely gesture. He was pleasantly surprised, so that was good (: 

I was secretly glad that the food made up for the somewhat lacklustre service. The hiccup before dinner was a bad start and it was hard getting the attention of the servers throughout the night. I'm not usually one to complain about waters not being refilled or plates not being cleared but for a place like Catalunya, I expected better service. Don't get me wrong though, the servers were very pleasant when they were around, none of that "I hate my job I don't wanna be here" look. 

Would I return? Just maybe. I really really wanted to love Catalunya. The food was great, and the facade and ambience just takes your breath away. But with the little hiccups and all, I wouldn't hurry to return. Not with all the new restaurants and places opening up in Singapore now. Perhaps I went on a bad night..perhaps one day I'll return to give it another chance. There are other items on their menu which I really want to try...

The Fullerton Pavilion, 82 Collyer Quay
+65 65340188 (General Enquiries), +65 65340886 (Reservations)

Thursday, June 6, 2013

JAAN, Singapore

Recently ranked #22 and the "one to watch" in Asia's Best 50 Restaurants 2013, JAAN has got to be one of the most underrated restaurants last year. JAAN, derived from the ancient Sanskrit word for 'bowl', is helmed by Chef Julien Royer who was previously chef de cuisine of Brasserie Les Saveurs at St Regis Singapore. JAAN serves up one of the most innovative and imaginative modern French cuisine I've ever came across, so much so that I've been back to JAAN three times for their ever changing degustation menu and I haven't been let down at all.

JAAN is located on the 70th floor of Swissotel the Stamford and at any time of day you get gorgeous views of Singapore. Try and make reservations for the window seats - you won't be disappointed!

Although their menu changes seasonally, some signature items remain, and rightfully so if I may add. These are a mumbo jumbo from 3 visits so some of these items are no longer on their current menu.

Bread...glorious bread! 

One of each please!

I could eat these all day and be contented. I had a walnut and raisin bread, truffle brioche and a mini sourdough. On each occasion we had second servings! With that gorgeous French butter and a sprinkling of salt..mmm. My favourite would have to be the black truffle brioche. Phenomenal indeed. 

Mise en bouche 

Smoked eel with kombu jelly, crispy chicken skin with tandoori mayo, cheese croquette and hummus with multigrain spiced crackers. Each a delight on it's own. 

"My hummus" 

If I had to choose my least favourite item from the mise en bouche platter, it would have to be the hummus. Don't get me wrong though, it isn't because it wasn't good, it's because everything else was stunning. The cheese croquette were absolutely moreish. The smoked eel with kombu jelly was a very well thought out concept, but my favourite? 

Chicken skin with tandoori mayo

Wafer thin crispy chicken skin. After devouring this you're left wishing they sell this in huge containers. Such a pity it was such a small piece! You get the flavour of roast chicken skin except the flavour is so amplified that it's like having crispy chicken fat (; 

Smoked mushroom foam tea

To call this mushroom soup would be wrong. To call it mushroom tea would be to do it injustice. This was an explosion of umami flavours in the mouth! We were left wishing that the waiter would just leave that plunger on the table so we could have more. 

Cep sabayon, wild mushrooms, walnut and lovage

A sip from this and you'll be mind blown. It's served warm, with bits of mushroom at the bottom, as well as walnuts and little buckwheat puffs for a crunch. The lovage gives it a nice sweet celery-like flavour without being too overpowering. 

Pine scented Scottish salmon heart

This was served with some toasted bread with truffle butter. Can it get anymore decadent? The Aquitaine caviar provided the little bursts of saltiness and little balls of cucumber gave it the freshness it needed. Another well thought out dish!

'Bresse' Chicken, confit oxtail and foie gras 'presse'

I remember feeling a bit sad for this - all it's "predecessors" has been mind blowing and life changing kind of good, so much so that this was left trying to fight for the spotlight...

55' Rosemary Smoked Organic Egg

This has got to be JAAN's signature dish so much so that it stays on the menu every time. Even the presentation itself is so theatrical and many a times you'll find diners frantically whipping out their phones trying to snap a picture before the smoke from the dry ice dissipates. 

Smoked rattes (fingerling potato), autumn mushrooms, chorizo, buckwheat puffs

The egg is poured onto a little glass bowl on your table and it is perfect every time - custardy white and yolk. I noticed that the ingredients changes time to time but whatever they decide to pair the egg with, it is granted to have textures and flavours that go so well you wish this was breakfast every morning. 

Pumpkin veloute with foie gras

This was actually offered on the menu as part of an extra dish with supplement costs. If you noticed the smoked egg picture above, there was only one egg - that's because my dining companion refuses to eat "eggy stuff" as he puts it. We asked if we could swap out the egg dish for something else and they very kindly substituted it for this - without any supplement charge! 

I dream of this till today...it tasted as if a 1000 pumpkins have given up their souls for this. Velvety, creamy and so decadent. Topped with pieces of seared foie gras...very hearty indeed. French cuisine at it's best. 

Crispy Skinned Atlantic Mackerel

There are many ways for a fish dish to go wrong. If you claim for it to be crispy skinned, it has to be crispy. And especially not fishy. Unfortunately not many places do it right but JAAN never fails to impress. This was served with sautéed young squid, sweet corn puree, and 'dolce forte'. Dolce forte is actually a chocolate and red wine reduction - just in a fancy French name. Despite what sounds like such a heavy and rich sauce this was very clean tasting. The mackerel had a very delicate flavour and was perfectly cooked and the sweet corn puree gave it that extra sweetness. Very good indeed. 

Line caught dory

Up close 

Another fish dish done well! This time served with grilled romanesco, crayfish and mussels.

Venison saddle

Perfectly cooked saddle of venison with blood orange, celeriac and Grand Veneur (huntsman's sauce). Grand Veneur is usually served with game meat and has the sweet-sour flavour of red currant jelly. JAAN's version was saltier than other Grand Veneurs I've tried but the blood orange made up for it - giving it that citrusy tang, lifting the whole dish to another level. 

36 hours Kurobuta pork, forgotten vegetables and autumn broth

If there is one dish I'd like to forget, it would be this. Such a pity really, because the broth that came with it was amazing. They served this with only a fork and knife, and we were a bit embarassed to ask for a spoon. We would have gladly slurped this from the bowl if we weren't in a fine dining restaurant! So why did we dislike this dish so much? The pork had this foul taste - very porky and a put off to be honest. 

Palate cleanser

I love being served a palate cleanser. To me it isn't about "clear" tastes in between food, but it's more of signifying the start of another great chapter - dessert! (: This was calamansi sorbet, freeze dried banana and coconut foam. I would have loved for the sorbet to be a little more tart but it was great nonetheless. 

Christmas Choconuts

Another item which stays on the menu quite regularly - just in different forms. Sable breton, textures of white, milk and dark chocolate.

Choconuts

Another version (: Sable breton, Tanariva chocolate, tonka bean ice cream, macadamia and pecan nut, and walnut snow. To be honest I wasn't very impressed by their Choconut desserts. My dining companion however have been having dreams about it till this very day - to each his own I guess. He claims that if he has the money, he would return and pay for the whole dego course but change every item on the menu to this. That's saying something! 

Mignardises (small desserts)

And another one!

Their mignardises (not quite petits fours), while similar in concept, varies from time to time. The chocolate smoked rosemary ice cream would have to be my favourite among the lot. 

Menu and pricing varies all the time, so it would be best for you to check out their website for their latest offerings. I've found that emailing works best for me as they would also email you a copy of their PDF menu should it be unavailable on their website. It might also be good to note that items on the day itself may vary slightly from their menu on the website. 

I must also add that both their lunch and dinner degustations are worth trying. Unlike most fine dining places where it's only best to go for their full dinner degustation, JAAN's lunch dego is equally as amazing as their dinner seating! 

Excellent views, excellent service, excellent food. A rare combination these days. 

JAAN Restaurant
2 Stamford Road, Level 70, Equinox Complex, Swissotel the Stamford
+65 68373322

Wednesday, June 5, 2013

Oceans of Seafood, Singapore

Back when I was in Perth, the idea of a perfect Sunday for me would be to sleep in and then walk around Fremantle - a cuppa coffee, brunch and a walk around the markets for fresh produce and seafood.

The newly opened PasarBella at The Grandstand (formerly known as Turf City) would be Singapore's version of Fremantle. Ever since it opened, I find myself there nearly every week. And it always ends with some of the freshest seafood you can find in town.

Oceans of Seafood is probably the largest stall in PasarBella, and it encompasses of 2 retail seafood outlets and 2 food and beverage outlets (one Japanese, sourced directly from Japan's Tsujiki Markets, and the other international).

Japanese seafood selection

Japanese ark shell (Akagai)

Their concept is similar to Raw Bars all over the world, you pick your seafood, choose a table and have it delivered to you. All seafood is either served raw, or simply steamed/boiled and served with your choice of homemade sauces which includes vinaigrettes, flavoured butters etc. They do charge a small fee for cooking though.


Pacific Oysters, 1/2 dozen ($12)

On my first visit, they only had Pacific Oysters. My second and third visits subsequently saw me indulging in Fanny Bay Canadian oysters (1/2 dozen, $16), Coffin Bay Australian Osyters (1/2 dozen, $16) as well as XXL USA oysters ($10 per piece). I like how they have Tabasco sauce on hand, you'll be surprised how many oyster bars don't provide any! So...do you like oysters? Or are they "snot of the sea" in your books? (;

Live North Sea brown crabs ($4.50/100g)

Served with garlic butter sauce

First time coming across brown crabs. You should have seen the delight on our faces when this was brought to our table! The roe! And unlike hairy crabs, brown crabs have decent amount of flesh on them so what you get is really sweet flesh plus all that roe. 

 Roe from the brown crab

Will you just look at that! The size of the roe was perhaps as thick as my palm - we ended up leaving half of it behind. It was just too much! Looking back, we should have doggy bagged it...crab roe fried rice...braised e-fu noodles with crab roe. Sigh...

Before...

 And after...

I can't remember which lobster we chose - but it was definitely not the Boston lobster. Either the Maine or South African ones I think. We also got 4 of the USA sea clams this time and decided to have them with miso butter and a dill and cucumber sour cream. That miso butter...oh my. Everything would have went well with that miso butter. You know when you can't quite describe something and all you say is that it's umami? Well this is it. I would have gotten some spot prawns just so I can dunk them into this miso butter had we not been so stuffed from all the non stop eating (sis was visiting for the weekend...)

More USA sea clams ($6/100g)

Couldn't get enough of these mollusks so we had more the next trip (: They're really sweet, have an abalone texture which is slightly chewy but right in the centre all creamy and erm....mushy. Does that turn you off? Lol

Uni ($35 per serving)

What does sea urchin taste like? A sea creature so spiky and alien like. My sister's absolute favourite, pretty sure she'll order this anytime of the day. I remember reading somewhere that uni tastes like a piece of phlegm, floating in the sea for days, rotting away. Epic. Well, my first encounter of uni in KL was exactly that. But have you ever tasted the sea breeze? The next time you're down that way, open your mouth and taste the breeze. Fresh uni should taste like that, just with a creamy custardy texture. Mmm...

 Japanese Top Shell ($23 per piece)

I'm sure many of you are familiar with top shells in canned form, served pickled with chilies and onion but never in my life have I seen a fresh one, let alone tasted one. 

Top Shell sashimi 

Imagine our surprise when this came to our table. Top shell sashimi in 3 parts. The part closest to you in the picture above, I believe, are the suckers because they were so hard and had an odd crunch to it. The part in the middle was slightly chewier, sort of like an abalone but with a slight crunch. The third part (which oddly looks like a pile of poo) was creamy and soft, with dark green innards. Tasted very much like what I'd imagine algae would taste like so we ended up drowning everything in miso butter and shoyu. Would I have this again? Probably not. But it was interesting while it lasted...


I brought this home for keepsake...it's sitting on my table right now. A good reminder that life is short and should be kept interesting (;

Oceans of Seafood
Pasarbella @ The Grandstand
200 Turf Club Road, #02-06 (#02-K2 to #02-K11)
+65 64661005

Tuesday, June 4, 2013

Omakase Burger, Singapore

Omakase, meaning "to entrust", from the Japanese phrase "to leave it up to you". In this case, to trust that the burgers are made using the freshest and highest quality ingredients, perhaps, made with love. 

Ranked as one of the top burgers in town, some say the best, I had high expectations. Located at the newly renovated Grandstand (formerly known as Turf City), it reminded me of local burger joints in Perth. 

 Mexican coke

Nothing better to wash down a burger than a coke and the guy recommended us to try the coke from Mexico. What's so special? It's apparently made with 100% natural cane sugar...I mean real sugar vs corn syrup. In a glass bottle. To be honest, I couldn't really justify the price difference in taste alone. You could taste the subtle differences but I would have regular coke anytime. I could have been more attracted to the slightly teal tinted glass bottle more than anything else.

Omakase Burger ($13.90)

The plainest and most straightforward burger on the menu, no add ons to cover up tastes, just pure straight up unadulterated beef burger. Omakase prides on their patty which is a blend of 100% USDA choice grade premium cuts, made daily to guarantee optimum freshness. The buns are artisanal buns, carefully thought out and chosen to support the patty while their cheese are specially imported from America, none of that fake plastic cheddar stuff. 

After all that hassle and thought put into a burger, just how good can this burger be? 



Oh, it was good. Let's start with the patty. Beefy in all the right ways and very simply seasoned so all you taste is the quality of the beef. The cheese melts over it, encasing the whole medium rare patty while acting as the glue to the buns. The buns...oh the buns. Light, fluffy and very buttery. Very brioche like. And the "secret Omakase sauce" wasn't too overpowering, provided just enough tang and saltiness to the burger. 

For $13.90++ though, it was a little on the pricey side. Wasn't a huge burger or anything, but I am a firm believer of you pay for what you get. Definitely worth trying and revisiting, maybe only when you have extra cash lying around to blow on food.

Omakase Burger
The Grandstand
200 Turf Club Road, #01-05
+65 67632698

Artichoke Cafe & Bar, Singapore

Weekends are never breakfast days. Saturdays are for late lunches, Sundays are for brunches - that way you still get up at an acceptable hour and make the most of the day before Monday kicks in again.

I'm not sure about you guys, but we recycle brunch ideas all the time. Eggs. Dim sum. Snacks at the mall. Eggs. Dim sum. Snacks at the mall. You get the drift. So when Middle Eastern brunch idea popped up, we were quick to jump at it.

Not knowing how popular Artichoke is, we were lucky to get a table one Sunday morning. Perhaps it did help that we were there before they were opened, but if you decide to go, make sure you make reservations!

 Iced latte & flat white 

Coffee was okay - acceptable but not as smooth as I hoped it would be. Slightly too acidic but it had the kick I needed on a Sunday morning. Then again, I had the iced latte and it wouldn't be fair for me to judge their coffee based on that.

Soft scrambled eggs, organic mushrooms and grilled haloumi 

I would gladly roll out of bed for this. The eggs were perfectly silky and creamy, the cracked wheat tabbouleh gave it that zing it needed and the spices on the za'atar bread was lovely. Best thing about it is that it looked so healthy, until you think about the amount of cream or butter that must have gone into the eggs. 

Soft scrambled eggs and thick cut maple bacon chop

Thick. Cut. Maple. Bacon. The pièce de résistance. I think I would have like it to be more caramelised and charred because it was so thick and felt as if it wasn't really rendered but then again, this isn't really crispy bacon, is it? On my second visit it was sweeter than the first time I had this, and as odd as it sounds, the sweetness from the maple syrup actually helped cut through all that fat. Sticky sweet goodness of maple on bacon. Mmmmm...

As much as I hate using these words, this would be what I call a hidden little gem in the bustling streets of Bugis. There are plans hatching to try and conquer their Donut Zinger - peanut butter donut, marshmallow fluff, fried chicken strips, siracha coleslaw and chips. Heart attack on a plate...but that should be interesting.

Artichoke Cafe & Bar
161 Middle Road, Sculpture Square
+65 63366949